In the glittering world of cosmetics and cinema, few names evoke as much reverence as Max Factor. Born Maksymilian Faktorowicz in 1877 in what is now Poland (then part of the Russian Empire), this Polish-Jewish immigrant transformed from a persecuted artisan under Tsarist rule to the undisputed “father of modern makeup.”
His innovations not only revolutionized how actors appeared on screen during Hollywood’s Golden Age but also democratized beauty, making high-end cosmetics accessible to everyday women worldwide. Factor’s contributions spanned groundbreaking product developments, like the first film-specific greasepaint and panchromatic makeup, to shaping the iconic looks of stars such as Jean Harlow, Clara Bow and Judy Garland.
He even popularized the term “make-up” itself, turning it from a theatrical slang into a household word. Through sheer ingenuity and resilience, Max Factor built an empire that forever changed the cosmetics industry and show business.
Max Factor’s story begins in Zdunska Wola near Łódź, in the Pale of Settlement – a region where Jews faced severe restrictions and poverty under Russian rule. Born on September 15, 1877, to Abraham Faktorowicz – a grocer, rabbi and mill worker depending on accounts – and Cecylia Wrocławska, young Maksymilian lost his mother at age two, leaving his father to raise four children in dire circumstances.
With no formal education due to financial woes, he started working at just seven, selling sweets in a theater lobby. By eight, he apprenticed with a dentist and pharmacist, honing skills that would later prove invaluable.
His big break came at nine when he became an apprentice to a wig maker and cosmetician in Łódź. This led to stints at prestigious establishments like Anton’s of Berlin and, at 14, Korpo in Moscow, serving the Imperial Russian Grand Opera.
Drafted into the army at 18, Factor served in the Hospital Corps, where he assisted doctors and studied chemistry – knowledge he later credited for his cosmetic breakthroughs, despite hating the military life. Discharged at 22, he opened a shop in Ryazan’, crafting handmade rouges, creams, fragrances, and wigs that caught the eye of traveling theatrical troupes performing for nobility.
Factor’s talent elevated him to the Tsar’s court after a palace performance impressed Nicholas II. Appointed as the official cosmetician for the royal family and Grand Opera, he created products for the Tsar’s entourage. However, this honor came with isolation: the Tsar restricted his movements, allowing only secretive visits to his wife, Esther Rosa, and their three children – Freda (1898), Cecilia (1899) and Davis (1902). Amid rising anti-Semitism, pogroms, and political unrest, Factor feared for his life and family’s safety.
In a daring escape in 1904, Factor used his makeup expertise to feign a severe illness, yellowing his face to mimic a condition treatable only in Carlsbad, Germany (now Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic). Convincing the Tsar’s physician, he fled with his family, evading agents through disguises, and arrived in America with just $400.
Landing at Ellis Island on February 25, 1904, aboard the S.S. Moltke III, the Faktorowicz family – now anglicized to Factor – settled in St. Louis, Missouri, joining relatives. Max sold cosmetics at the 1904 World’s Fair but was swindled by his partner. Undeterred, he opened a barbershop with family help. Tragedy struck again: Esther died of a brain hemorrhage in 1906, shortly after their fourth child, Francis “Frank” (1904), was born. Factor remarried Helen Sradkowska in 1906, having Louis (1907), but they divorced bitterly in 1908, with Max gaining custody. That year, he wed Jennie Cook, welcoming Sidney (1916), completing his six children.
Spotting opportunity in the nascent film industry, Factor moved to Los Angeles in 1908, opening “Max Factor’s Antiseptic Hair Store” on South Central Avenue. Becoming a U.S. citizen in 1912, he founded Max Factor & Company in 1909, distributing theatrical brands like Leichner and Minor. Recognizing greasepaint’s flaws – cracking under hot lights and looking unnatural in close-ups – he experimented, perfecting in 1914 the first motion-picture cosmetic: a thinner, jarred greasepaint in 12 shades that applied smoothly without caking. This Supreme Greasepaint, the first in tubes, was a game-changer for actors.
Factor’s inventions were born from necessity. Traditional stage makeup washed out under arc lights and orthochromatic film, but his 1910 semiliquid greasepaint offered natural tones and even coverage. In 1918, Color Harmony introduced shades for various hair and skin types, promoting inclusivity early on. With panchromatic film in the 1920s, he developed compatible makeup, earning a 1928 Honorary Academy Award from the Society of Motion Picture Engineers.
He pioneered false eyelashes, lip gloss, compact powder, concealer, brush-in mascara, and long-lasting lipstick (tested with “kissing machines”). In the 1930s, his beauty micrometer measured faces for precise application, ensuring “screen personalities.” Factor even authored the “Make-Up” entry in Encyclopædia Britannica’s 1929 edition, defining it as corrective and creative. These advancements laid the foundation for the U.S. cosmetics industry, shifting from theatrical to everyday use.
Factor’s Hollywood salon on Hollywood Boulevard became a star magnet, where he personally crafted looks for cinema’s elite. He lightened Rudolph Valentino’s skin, platinum-bleached Jean Harlow’s hair, bobbed Clara Bow’s locks with heart-shaped lips, curled Lucille Ball’s red hair with false lashes, and overdrew Joan Crawford’s “Hunter’s Bow” lips. Clients included Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, Marlene Dietrich, Ava Gardner, Mary Pickford, Bette Davis, Norma Shearer, and Judy Garland – virtually every major actress.
He supplied wigs for Westerns, renting them on condition his sons got roles to guard them. His on-set kits, like the 1928 Satin Smooth set with powder and rouge, became staples. Factor’s work earned credits in films, cameo appearances, and a nod in “Hooray for Hollywood” for Bow’s lips. A 1929 Honorary Oscar and Hollywood Walk of Fame star at 6922 Hollywood Boulevard cemented his show business legacy.
In the 1920s, Factor expanded beyond studios with Society Make-Up, marketed in magazines to let “every girl” emulate stars. At Frank’s urging, he coined “make-up” in 1920, shedding its disreputable connotations. Affordable and mail-order accessible, his products turned cosmetics from “tawdry” to elegant, influencing global trends – even in China nearly a century ago.
Factor’s life was marked by resilience: multiple marriages, custody battles, and a 1938 extortion threat in Europe that hastened his death at 60 on August 30, 1938, in Beverly Hills. Buried at Hillside Memorial Park, he left a family-run business; son Frank (Max Factor Jr.) expanded it internationally. Descendants include controversial figures like great-grandson Andrew Luster, but also entrepreneurs like Amit L. Kochavi.
Max Factor’s brand, now owned by Coty, endures as a symbol of innovation. He not only made stars shine but empowered women everywhere, proving that beauty could bridge class and culture. From Tsarist courts to Hollywood sets, his journey exemplifies how talent and tenacity can create an indelible mark on history.