Lately, I have been seeing quite a lot of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: jacquard elastic webbing.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you probably know that many finishing methods for the legholes and waistline embrace elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic within the legs-and typically they don’t in the waist both. That is the type of underwear I like best.
So, the place does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I want to make my very own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you methods to swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Easy methods to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Make certain your fabric meets the stretch necessities stated in the pattern you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork pattern, it includes a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you need to use has enough stretch in it. Here are some Seamwork patterns you should utilize:
– The Geneva panties are a basic alternative, especially in order for you to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-brief model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work effectively with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You may make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew collectively all the basic items. Here is my constructed garment apart from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you determine how lengthy your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favorite, however we acquired this!
You need some math because if you cut the knit band the identical size because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. You want to find the right amount of destructive ease on your knit band to stay in place and match securely-however comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the overall circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a very good place to begin! For knitted elastic band those who have almost any queries with regards to in which and also the best way to make use of jacquard elastic webbing buy, you are able to e-mail us from our web site. Depending on your fabric’s recovery, it’s possible you’ll must do some testing to get the best circumference. You can at all times baste your band to your underwear to examine the fit first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I reduce my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches wide, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go underneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. When you cut your bands too slender, they might have some extra bulk at the seam allowance. If you happen to reduce them too broad, you could have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two brief ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With incorrect sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in action in this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same course of on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to make sure your on-line experiences are fun and gratifying.