Lately, I have been seeing a variety of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you in all probability know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic webbing, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t find out about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic within the legs-and sometimes they don’t within the waist either. This is the type of underwear I like best.
So, the place does this leave me? I’m not a fan of jacquard elastic band in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, however I want to make my very own underwear. This is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you easy methods to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
The way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Be sure your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged within the sample you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it features a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you want to use has enough stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic choice, particularly in order for you to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are good for biker-quick type underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band as an alternative of elastic.
If you beloved this article so you would like to acquire more info concerning Woven Elastic Band; Coub.Com, nicely visit our web-site. – The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You may make these without the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline to help you decide how lengthy your knit bands have to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favorite, however we received this!
You need some math because should you minimize the knit band the identical length as the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic end. You want to search out the proper quantity of negative ease in your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to follow a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I need to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a superb place to start out! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you might have to do some testing to get the fitting circumference. You’ll be able to always baste your band to your underwear to check the fit first.
So, woven elastic band since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I reduce my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I need my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches broad, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go under 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who reduce your bands too slender, they might need some extra bulk on the seam allowance. In case you cut them too extensive, you could have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 brief ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one facet. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With unsuitable sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, woven elastic band mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in motion on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same course of in your other leg gap and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to verify your online experiences are enjoyable and gratifying.