Lip, the venerable French watch brand, stands as a testament to innovation, resilience, and the intersection of craftsmanship with social history. Founded in the heart of France’s watchmaking region, Besançon, Lip has weathered wars, technological revolutions, economic crises, and even worker uprisings to emerge as a symbol of French ingenuity.
From its humble beginnings in 1867 to its modern revival in the 21st century, Lip’s story is not just about timepieces but about the times themselves—reflecting industrial evolution, political struggles, and cultural shifts. As the oldest French watch brand still in operation, Lip embodies elegance, quality, and a commitment to “Made in France” production. This story chronicles the full saga of Lip, drawing on its pioneering spirit and the challenges that nearly ended it.
Founding and Early Expansion (1867–1900s)
The Lip story begins in 1867 when Emmanuel Lipmann, a skilled watchmaker, established a small workshop in Besançon, the epicenter of French horology. At a time when watchmaking was transitioning from artisanal craft to industrialized production, Lipmann focused on creating high-quality time-measuring instruments. His workshop quickly gained a reputation for precision, introducing tools and techniques that were ahead of their era.
By 1893, the business had grown significantly, evolving into the Société anonyme d’horlogerie Lipmann Frères, managed by Emmanuel’s children: Ernest, Camille, and Jenny. This family-driven expansion laid the foundation for Lip’s future success. In 1904, Ernest Lipmann collaborated with Nobel Prize-winning physicists Pierre and Marie Curie to develop phosphorescent dials using radium, allowing watches to be read in the dark for the first time. This innovation was revolutionary, though the radioactive materials posed health risks that would only be understood later.
The early 1900s marked a period of rapid growth. In 1907, Lip built its first dedicated factory, and by 1908, it had relocated to modern premises equipped with electricity and heating—luxuries in the industry at the time. That same year, the company registered the “LIP” trademark, solidifying its brand identity. By 1910, production had ramped up to 10,000 watches annually, targeting France’s burgeoning middle class through innovative nationwide advertising campaigns.
During World War I, Lip shifted focus to military needs, producing chronometers and other instruments for the French armed forces under the leadership of Ernest Lipmann. This wartime contribution not only sustained the company but also enhanced its prestige.
Innovations and Growth in the Interwar Period (1919–1930s)
Post-World War I, Lip embraced modernity. In 1919, it launched a groundbreaking advertising campaign to democratize watch ownership, reaching a broader French audience and boosting its reputation. By the 1920s, production had soared, and in 1929, Lip introduced the sub-brand SAM. The company renamed itself LIP SA d’Horlogerie in 1931, with Fred Lip (grandson of Emmanuel) taking a prominent role. Fred encouraged employee shareholding and modernized operations, commissioning engineer André Donat to create a mass-producible movement.
A pinnacle of this era was the 1933 launch of the rectangular T18 watch, powered by the innovative T18 caliber (named for its tonneau shape and 18mm width). This model was precise, robust, and aesthetically pleasing, selling over 400,000 units by 1949. In 1935, Lip ventured into aviation, producing the “Type 10” watch for pilots, including Jean Mermoz’s “La Croix du Sud” aircraft. By the mid-1930s, Lip had become France’s largest watch manufacturer, producing 40,000 watches yearly.
The Great Depression tested the company, but Lip’s emphasis on quality and reliability helped it thrive. Experiments with electricity began in the late 1920s, leading to electric clocks by the 1930s and collaborations like the one with Ericsson in 1936.
World War II and Post-War Boom (1939–1950s)
World War II brought profound challenges. Under Nazi occupation, Lip’s factories in Besançon were seized for German production. Fred Lip, who had changed the family surname to “Lip” in 1938, joined the French Resistance. He smuggled tooling to unoccupied France, enabling production of the I24 movement for Free French forces. The company operated under the alias “Saprolip” to produce armaments and instruments.
After the war, Fred reclaimed the factories, ushering in a boom. Inspired by American assembly lines (from visits to Harley-Davidson and Indian), Lip installed France’s first watch assembly line. It supplied expertise to Russia and became the first non-Swiss brand to use “Geneve” on dials. In 1948, a gold-plated T18 was gifted to Winston Churchill by the French government.
The 1950s saw adventurous milestones. In 1950, a Lip Himalaya watch with the R23 caliber accompanied Maurice Herzog to Annapurna’s summit, enduring over 8,000 meters. By 1954, with 1,500 employees, Lip produced 300,000 watches annually.
The Electric and Electronic Revolution (1950s–1960s)
Fred Lip’s vision propelled Lip into the electric era. Serious development began in 1948, with a 1949 technical exchange with Elgin. On March 19, 1952, Lip unveiled the world’s first electric wristwatch prototype, patented as an “electronic” movement. General de Gaulle wore one, customized for his eyesight.
The R27 movement launched in 1958, followed by the improved R148 in the 1960s, which featured better efficiency and was exported to brands like Benrus and Elgin. In 1957, Lip created a massive quartz chronometer, miniaturized over time. By 1971, it released its first quartz watch. Lip also developed the R50, the world’s first ladies’ electronic watch, in collaboration with Ebauches SA.
In 1967, for its centenary, Lip launched the Nautic-Ski, France’s first 200-meter water-resistant watch with an internal bezel, favored by sailors like Eric Tabarly. The late 1960s saw aesthetic shifts, hiring designer Prince Francois de Baschmakoff for “design-first” watches, breaking traditions.
The Lip Affair: Crisis and Worker Uprising (1970s)
The 1970s quartz crisis hit hard. Competition from Japan and Switzerland, plus high R&D costs, led to financial woes. Fred Lip was ousted in 1971. In 1973, secret layoffs sparked a worker occupation of the Besançon factory. Employees implemented self-management, hiding 65,000 watches and adopting the slogan: “C’est possible: on fabrique, on vend, on se paie!” (“It is possible: we make them, we sell them, we get paid!”). Riot police intervened, but the occupation lasted months, symbolizing post-May ’68 resistance.
In 1974, a peace deal brought Claude Neuschwander as director, who rehired workers and commissioned designers like Roger Tallon for the Mach 2000—a bold, futuristic chronograph. Other designs, like Rudolf Meyer’s Galaxie and Michel Boyer’s colorful pieces, influenced future brands like Swatch. Despite this, production ceased in 1976 amid liquidation.
Decline, Bankruptcies, and Revivals (1980s–2000s)
The 1980s brought bankruptcy, with low-quality Chinese-made watches tarnishing the brand. In 1990, Jean-Claude Sensemat acquired the name and IP, restarting production in France with heritage models using Miyota movements. The 1990s saw diplomatic nods, like the General de Gaulle watch gifted to Bill Clinton in 1997.
In 2003, Lip launched the Mythic, with rotating discs for a unique display. However, the brand struggled until 2014, when Société des Montres Bisontines (SMB), a Besançon family firm, acquired it. CEO Pierre-Alain Bérard mothballed low-end products, focusing on reissuing icons like the Churchill, Himalaya, and Mach 2000.
The Modern Era: Innovation and Heritage (2010s–Present)
Under SMB, Lip has flourished. By 2022, annual production exceeded 80,000 watches, using Ronda quartz and Miyota automatics, with prices from €189 to over €1,000 for models like the Nautic 3 diver. In 2021, the Rallye Automatic Chronograph debuted, followed by the titanium Big TV in 2023.
2024 saw the relaunch of the T18 with a hand-wound mechanical caliber, limited to 180 pieces that sold out quickly. In 2025, Lip began producing the in-house R26 self-winding movement, developed with SupMicroTech, emphasizing local sourcing. Plans include relaunching the T18 caliber and aiming for 150,000 units annually. Today, with over 110 employees in Besançon, Lip balances quartz affordability with mechanical prestige.
Legacy and Iconic Models
Lip’s legacy lies in its democratized innovations—from radium dials to electric movements—and its role in social history. Iconic models like the T18 (Churchill’s watch), Himalaya (mountaineering legend), Nautic-Ski (diving pioneer), and Mach 2000 (design revolution) continue to inspire. The brand produced over 10 million watches by 1976, influencing global horology.
Lip’s story is one of rebirths, from family workshop to worker cooperative to modern enterprise. It reminds us that timepieces measure not just seconds, but the pulse of history itself. As Lip enters its next chapter, it remains a beacon of French watchmaking excellence.